African Roots in The Andean Highlands - The Shaman of Cotacachi
Part II
By Angie Brenner and Joy E. Stocke
Shaman's Tools
by Joy E. Stocke
Victor motions for us to enter the room he calls the shaman's laboratory, while he steps outside to negotiate the price of our ritual cleansing with the shaman.
In the cool white-washed room, a small, wooden block dripped with candle wax, a wooden box decorated with saints, and an ebony-black spear surround a red plastic lawn chair. Unable to resist peering into the shaman's box, we take a peek at his tool-box containing sticks, leaves, and several smooth earth-colored and black stones. Joy quickly snaps a photo and we sit down on a bench against the opposite wall.
Shaman's Stones
by Joy E. Stocke
The shaman, enters carrying a spray bottle of clear a liquid that we assume is holy water, and sits in his chair, followed by Victor who gives us white candles, keeping one for himself.
He motions Joy to stand in front of the shaman, and then he and the shaman begin a discussion. We don't speak Spanish and Victor speaks little English, so he gesture the shaman's request that Joy remove her blouse.
Uncomfortable with the suggestion, she shakes her head, and says, "No."
More discussion ensues until an agreement is reached where Joy can remain clothed.
"Las mujeres creen," says Victor, "The women believe."
And that seems to satisfy the shaman who smiles at us.
And we do believe. Since we've both been baptized in the Catholic faith, the idea of invoking the spirits of ancestors and saints is familiar to us. The trip has been a whirlwind of people, inspirational thoughts, and new beginnings. Our individual yoga practices have taught us to keep our focus and let go of anything which does not serve the better good. If the shaman can conjure forth spirits, then we're perfectly willing to let those spirits, through his intercession, remove any negative energy from our minds, hearts, and bodies.
The shaman takes the candle from Joy, lights it, and asks her profession.
"Journalist," she says.
"Periodista," Victor translates.
Joy closes her eyes and concentrates on removing any negative energy that would get in the way of reporting all that she has seen and experienced during the past week.
The shaman nods as if he understands, and the ritual begins. She hands him the unlit candle which he rubs over her body, front and back, and then over face, forehead and hair. Then he hands her the black spear, having her grasp it with both hands, repeating the procedure he initiated with the candle - front, back of body, over face and hair.
She hands back the pole, which he sets against the wall. He picks up the spray bottle and makes a grimace to indicate that she should squeeze her eyes tight. Before she can close her eyes completely, he sprays the holy water directly into her face.
Angie glances toward Victor. With a look of shock and disbelief, he covers his mouth to suppress a laugh.
Joy, however, is not laughing. The solution that the shaman is now spraying and rubbing under her shirt, arms and hands stings her eyes like hell and smells like an herbal, alcoholic beverage. Tears fall from her eyes as the shaman sprays her hands with the mixture and asks her to rub it over her hair.
The process continues now in rapid motion. Chanting an incantation, the shaman plucks first one smooth stone from his box and rubs this over Joy's body and under her shirt. Then another and another, before rubbing her face and arms with a shorter black stick. Finally, the candle is blown out and the ritual is over. The shaman and the saints have completed their work.
Joy sits down on the bench rubbing her eyes, whispering, "So this is Santeria."
Over four-hundred years ago, African slaves brought the practice of Santeria "La Regla Lucumm" to the new world via the Spanish slave trade routes, first to Cuba and then the Caribbean. By integrating their religious beliefs with Catholicism, they were able to create a thriving faith, keeping it alive and secret at the same time.
The Yoruba people of West Africa overlaid characteristics of their Orisha - a spiritual being or presence that is interpreted as one of the manifestations of God represented in stone deities - onto Catholic saints, the very saints who are manifested in the shaman's black stones.
Now, it's Angie's turn for the cleansing and knowing what awaits her, she concentrates on being present in the moment. Yet, when it comes time for the spray to the face, she's unprepared for the burn and sting to the eyes. Tears flow out like pouring water. Maybe, like life, pain is part of the process of Santeria.
Finally, the shaman nods at Victor who gamely removes his shirt and stoically goes through the motions. He winces only once while being doused with the alcohol mixture. Later, we learn that this is his first visit to the shaman, too.
Out in the sunlight, the world seems to glow, making us believe that all things are possible. We retreat to the small sanctuary to deliver our candles to the saints, and then return to Victor's taxi for the drive out of Cotacachi, the little town that UNESCO has declared a World Heritage Sight.
by Victor Penafiel