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Thursday, May 24th, 2007
This is our last day of the trip. The day at the beginning of the trip I was wishing for, but now I am sad it has arrived. Paris needs more than four days to really explore, and I have to admit, I was getting used to the city life.
Today was the second site to the Eiffel Tower that I was dying to see, the Louvre. My desire to see the Louvre came before the Da Vinci Code and before my project because of all the famous pieces of art. I decided to get the Da Vinci Code audio guide because it was the premise of my project. I have to say it was the best audio guide I have ever heard. The voice of character Captain Bezu Fache and the sound of his foot steps led us through the key rooms of the Louvre where the novel took place. I was excited that the tour high lighted more pieces of art than the guide the Louvre’s website. I was so overwhelmed with all the paintings, their sizes and the fact that I had studied a good chunk of them in my art history course this past semester. Book copies really do no justice to the real deal.
I was so impressed with my experience with the Louvre that I didn’t really want to do another museum to lessen my experience. I like to enjoy one thing at a time and I think another museum would have taken away from the experience I had at the Louvre. Lynn and I decided to walk back to the hotel, with a stop to eat our sandwiches on the banks of the Seine. It was a beautiful day and relaxing to sit there and chat while watching cruise boats go by with the Eiffel Tower in the background.
Our last night was great to have a group dinner. We all found our way to Le Chein Fumier, or the Smoking Dog. It was an old, but really cool restaurant, with delicious food and fun waiters, as always. Emmy’s toast was “You’ve all been a pleasure. You’ve all been a pain. But it has been a wicked good time.” I think she summed up the trip perfectly. After dinner, Emmy, Amy and I watched the Eiffel Tower light show over the Seine. The tower looked like a sparkling diamond in the sky. It was the perfect end to a most memorable trip!
Wednesday, May 23rd, 2007
Today was a full day of site seeing! We left first thing to head to Versailles. With a slight misdirection on the train, we arrived to meet the rest of the world at the Palace. The walk to the Palace was slightly treacherous between the horribly uneven cobblestone, ambush vendors and the hot sun. We made it though, unscathed!
The exterior architecture of the Palace was grand, but inside was even more impressive. Figure sculptures lined the hallway as we began the tour. The lengthy hall way would have made a cool perspective study. It was fun to recognize the names of some of the sculptures, including one of Joan d’Arc. The hallway led us to the theater were we sat enjoying the decadence of the decoration and wondered where Marie Antoinette sat to watch performances. Through the theater the tour led us through the rest of the rooms. I always wonder in places like Versailles if the bedrooms they have set up now for us to see were really what they were like when people lived there. I was less impressed by the hall of mirrors than I was expecting. Part of the reason is it is under renovation, so the mirrors are clean and shiny, and another part was people had etched their names into some of the mirrors. I just was expecting clean and shiny in this long hall of mirrors and chandeliers, but it wasn’t. After walking through the Palace, we went outside to the gardens. Standing on the steps I could barely see the end of the gardens in the horizon. We could see objects floating around in one of the rectangular ponds which turned out to be kayakers and row boats. I really wish I would have known you could do that because I definitely would have ventured out. I think that doing the fun and random things make a trip more memorable than doing what every other tourist is doing.
We headed back into Paris around 4:00 to meet up with the group that went to Giverny at the Eiffel Tower. When we came up from the RER station we oriented ourselves to where we were and started walking in the direction toward the Eiffel Tower. Then, all of a sudden, we looked down a side street and bam! There was one leg of the tower!!! It was so cool to see this massive base of the Eiffel tower right at the end of this small side street. I took my time walking up to the center, enjoying the garden and the increasing immensity of the tower as you got closer. The tower is even more impressive right up close. I couldn’t wait to get to the top.
Of course we had to wait though…the line for the elevator was at least a thirty minute wait, but so worth it. As we rose up the tower we could see outside. Stopping up at the second level, the sun was low in the sky and Paris looked like a golden city. I walked around the entire level and took some great pictures of the air view of the city. Then it was time to take the second elevator from the second to the third platform.
Just before we got to the elevator in the line, I heard my name from the crowd. I was thinking it was just a group member, but as I looked over my shoulder, I spotted Caroline, my cousin’s girlfriend. We knew we would be in Paris at the same time, but we hadn’t planned to meet. I had just been thinking how crazy it would be to run into her and there we were in the same place at the same time. Not to mention that she found me because the area around the Eiffel Tower as well as each platform, it would be like “Where’s Waldo” to find someone. We took pictures on the third level just to prove we weren’t making it up.
We then went out to dinner on the Champs Elysee. After my seventeen euro screwdriver, a delicious dinner and great conversation, we had to head back to the hotel. Lynn and I got off a metro stop further from the hotel and crossed the Seine. I captured a great picture of the Eiffel Tower all lit up with the river and a lit bridge in the foreground. What a great day!
Tuesday, May 22nd, 2007
We began our second day in Paris with a walking tour of the Isle de la Cite. We passed the remaining structures of the Roman Baths. Through the gate we could see the large basin. I could just envision steaming water heated by a complex ventilation system. The building is now part of the Cluny, a medieval museum.
Crossing the Seine River we made our first stop at Notre Dame, one of the most famous Gothic Cathedrals in the world. With the towers reaching to heaven, flying buttresses for support and gargoyles pouring off the sides, I was impressed by the immensity of the structure as well as the small details everywhere. Inside was just as impressive. The high arched ceilings, the chandeliers, and the stained glass in the rose windows was beautiful. I lit a candle and said a prayer for my family and friends at home. Then I strolled through the outer isle of the cathedral. I wished that all the chandeliers would have been lit while we were there. Before leaving I took time to sit and tilt my head to admire the ceiling and the details of the upper level. I could have sat there forever.
From there we headed to the Chapel of Saint Michel. Designed like a jewelry box, this chapel dwarfed in comparison to Notre Dame, but its details were much more intricate. It was interesting to compare the two even though they were not even close to the same size. The flying buttresses at Saint Michel were more flared allowing for more support and more windows. Everything inside was ornate and painted rather than stone and plain. Both were beautiful in their own right.
I was less impressed by La Conciegerie. I expected it to be more like a jail. It was basically a long room with arches and huge fireplaces. Then the part that depicted the cells was tacky with the fake mannequins inside. It was interesting to see how different Marie Antoinette’s cell was from all the standard cells, but I think they could have portrayed that without the mannequins.
We then had time to get ready and go meet the ambassador, Craig Stapleton. We all dressed to our best and headed over to his residence. Unfortunately, we were disappointed not to meet Stapleton. We were greeted by his wife and given a tour of the lower level of the residence. The residence and gardens are beautiful and I enjoyed the artwork. I could have done without the silly commentary of the docent on the pieces of art, because as an art minor, the comments killed my artistic soul!
Our dinner with Susan George helped to make up for our disappointment not meeting the ambassador. Susan sat right next to me during dinner. She was interested in what we had to say and open with sharing her thoughts. It was a different conversation of politics than I was used to, because it was a conversation, not a full blown argument with either side not listening to each other. We discussed social forums, people’s will and ability to affect change, France’s use of the internet as a main source of information rather than one news station and educational systems. I can honestly say I agreed with a lot of what she said during dinner and afterward to the group. I can see why she enjoys her life in France more than she would have in the USA. I wouldn’t choose to live in France simply because it is too far away from my family, but it does seem like a nice society to live in.
Monday, May 21st, 2007
Today we were off to Paris. To get there we had to take the TGV – the fastest train in the world. After being warned the train only stopped for a few minutes, we were prepared for the Chinese fire drill. What we didn’t know until a minute before the train pulled in was that we needed to be on platform X not S!!! As we booked it down the platform the train was rolling into the station. It was a rather stressful experience thinking we might miss the train. Everyone was yelling and pushing, but it wasn’t really necessary because the train attendants made sure everyone was on the train before the conductor took off.
All aboard the train we had three hours to relax before Paris. I read a little, listened to some music and made another necklace. I also entertained a little girl sitting on her dad’s lap in the seat in front of me. She was adorable and quite a bit of fun.
Arriving in Paris, we had to get us and our entire luggage off the train, but luckily with out the stringent time restraint. We were met by Coo, who led us on a general bus tour of the city so we could see the lay of the land. It was amazing to glimpse the sites for the first time. The Pyramid in front of the Louvre appeared smaller to me than I expected, but the Eiffel Tower was all and more than what I was thinking! I couldn’t believe I was finally standing in front of the icon of Paris. I can’t wait to go up to the top on Wednesday! All the architecture was also impressive in scale and intricate detailing. There is nothing else to really compare it to in the world.
After checking into the quaint Sorbonne Hotel, we were free to do what we wanted. While nearly the entire group ran off as soon as Ted said “Go,” Amy Lynn, Mare, Emmy and I didn’t know where to start.
Emmy decided to give us a destination. Elaina had given her a street name that had a bunch of hair salons that Emmy could finally get her hair done at. After lunch and a lot of walking, we found a place an hour before they closed, but they took her in anyway. While she was getting her hair done, we wandered around the area. Lynn got her nose pierced but that was about the extent of activity.
Earlier, we had walked by a table protesting against violence toward Iraq. Mare and Lynn signed their petition and were excited to see some political action. I hope that the poli-sci crew can get more information while they are in Paris on the politics of France.
Back at the hotel, we could see the top of the Eiffel Tower lit up in the night sky. Now, I’m not a huge fan of cities, but with all the museums, monuments and history how can you not love Paris?
Sunday, May 20th, 2007
I honestly wasn’t excited about today because of my first impression of Avignon, but knowing the shops were closed today, I figured if anything at least it wouldn’t be as busy.
The day started off with a sad good-bye to Elaina. She wished she could have stayed with us to head to Paris, but she had only been scheduled with us for one week. She is definitely the best tour guide I have experienced traveling abroad.
We continued on from our departure with Elaina to the Pope’s Palace. When the Pope lived in France, he inhabited this magnificent piece of architecture. I was disappointed to see bare walls and empty rooms. While the audio guide gave you an idea of what the Palace looked like, it was hard to concentrated and envision. My favorite part had nothing to do with the building itself but with the rose exhibit in the center court. I have never seen so many different colors of roses before, and the scent was overwhelming. I took a ton of pictures of the beautiful roses and the displays they had set up.
From the Palace, we headed to the Pont d’Avignon. The little song about the Pont was some of the first French I ever learned to speak. I danced on the bridge and took a ton of pictures of the beautiful scenery. It is said that the current of the Rhone is slowly taking away the historic bridge.
Earlier, on the way to the Palace, I noticed artist setting up tables with their work to sell. As we walked back to the cafes, there were even more vendors out. I was in love with one in particular painting of a sun flower, which was so big that it would have had to be shipped, and also it was way out of my price range. I settled for a smaller painting of sunflowers. I really loved her work and she was very pleasant to deal with. What was nice about her paintings too was that they all were very representative of the Provence area.
Lunch was at a café in the center square, right by the carousel. Lynn and I gave the Croque Madame a try. It was different because it had an egg on top of the regular ham and cheese grilled sandwich. I wasn’t sure if I would like it, but at the same time it is a similar concept to the egg sandwich we have at home. It was delicious!
Bellies full, it turned out to be nap time. I was trying not to sleep, but I ended up passing out for the afternoon, only to wake up and eat some more. Our second additional group dinner was at a modern restaurant down the street from our hotel. The coolest feature was the red light coming out of the faucet in the bathroom and the wall made of soap bars. Crab cakes, pates and pot de crème were another “best meal” of France. Not to mention the fried potato skins they gave us a starter. I really think that the meal deal idea for three courses at one price is a great concept. I wish American restaurants would take that into consideration.
Saturday, May 19th, 2007
I was sad that we already had to leave beautiful Carcassonne and early in the morning too! I wanted to bottle the smell as we left the hotel. The combination of lilacs and all the other flowers in the morning dew was amazing. Robert, our bus driver, had some tunes playing on the bus. It was a great way to get us all going because everyone was dancing. He would come on the bus periodically and flash the string lights that ran along the isle of the bus – we were just rocking out on your average disco bus.
Our destination for the day was Avignon, but with a stop in Toulouse for the Air Bus factory. Not going to lie, but the Air Bus factory was not something I was remotely interested in. I would have been perfectly fine with taking the time out to go to Cezanne’s studio and cut out the Air Bus, but oh well. The experience at the factory made me even less thrilled that we wasted time driving to it and the hour and a half it took out of my life that I will never get back. After we locked our cameras under the bus because they were forbidden we took a riveting (yeah right) drive around the factory with our Air Bus guide explaining what was going on in each building. We stopped at one building just to overlook three planes in the process of being built. Granted it is a huge plane, but I was less than impressed by their tour and the information given to us.
When we finally arrived in Avignon, we had to say “au revoir” to Robert and Elaina took us into the heart of the walled city. Our hotel was just outside the wall, but it was a ways from the center where we headed. It was a very busy afternoon and a holiday weekend for France. I was uncomfortable with all the crowding, the shops weren’t appealing and the heat was too much. I didn’t get the best first impression of Avignon.
Elaina had a great surprise for our evening! To make up for the Air Bus tour, she negotiated two more group dinners, one being a dinner cruise on the Rhone! The cruise gave us awesome views of the city including the Popes Palace, Pont d’Avignon and much more. Our dinner was a five course meal with the main course being filet mignon. I also had the chance to test fois gras as an appetizer. After I stopped thinking about what it actually was, it wasn’t that bad. After the cruise and dinner, the boat docked and had a DJ for a dance party. I couldn’t dance because of the blisters on the balls of my feet, but everyone had fun busting a move. It was a great end to a long and not very exciting day.
Friday, May 18th, 2007
Thankfully, when I woke up this morning, I was feeling much, much better. Between the food and the time change and the shifting of my medications, I think my body needed a day to readjust. I filled up on breakfast and we checked out of Arles to head for Carcassonne. The drive which lasted three hours was mostly views of countryside, vineyards and a glimpse of the Pyrenees. Even though I slept all day yesterday and all night, I still was able to nap on the ride.
Upon arriving in Carcassonne, we were all happy to see our new hotel was another Mercure and very pleasant. Lynn and my room looked out over a beautiful garden, the hotel’s patio, and the walls of the old city of Carcassonne. Not long after checking in we hiked up to Place Marcou, a square full of small cafes for lunch. Lynn, Mare and I picked out a creperie toward the back corner. I had my new found favorite salad with warm goat cheese and for desert, my first crepe in France (with Nuetella of course). Lunch definitely hit the spot, but I think that my dad can whip up a better crepe than the one I had.
With our bellies full Elaina led the group through the old city. She pointed out the Chateau, the hotel known for housing famous people, the house of horrors and the basilica. We were able to enter La Bascillique des Saintes Nazaire et Celse. There I lit a candle for my family and said a small prayer for their well being. Although built much later than the rest of the city the surrounding wall and pathways gave way to great views of the modern city of Carcassonne. While some of the architecture reminded me of Sleeping Beauty or Snow White, the narrow streets and shops reminded me of Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. I really enjoyed walking around despite the fact I almost fell flat on my face a dozen times thanks to the uneven cobblestone.
After the tour I decided not to enter the museum of torture because I had been to a similar museum in Germany, and not to mention it is kind of disturbing. Tammy, Jamie, Cassie North and I walked around and had fun in all the little shops. I ended up buying a lot of gifts here. I finally purchased a quilt. I had been seeing them all over the place and really wanted one to remember the trip by. I also found a really cool necklace, a funky watch and a nice patchwork bag. I bought a second bag for my friend Corinne and an inside joke gift for my room mate next year, Amanda. I found a shop with gargoyles and bought one for dad. Since I can’t take one off the side of the basilica the next best thing is a little figurine. This one is a “Chemin Pensur” or a “Thinking Gargoyle.”
We were all shopped out by late afternoon. We headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner, another three course meal deal. It seems to be popular to offer a selection of three courses for a set price and I think it is a great idea. We were treated to another beautiful and fresh salad with toppings of our choice, I gave duck a try for my main course and romance au chocolat for desert. It was definitely the best meal I had so far in France. The duck wasn’t chicken-ish like I expected, but it was delicious. Of all the places I have seen in Europe, Carcassonne is definitely one of my favorite spots.
Wednesday, May 16th, 2007
Waking from a well deserved night of sleep, we dined with a portly pigeon in the hotel’s restaurant. While he took care of our crumbs, we enjoyed more croissants and bread with my absolute favorite topping-Nutella! Peanut butter is yummy, but compared to a chocolate spread with a hint of hazelnut, it’s got nothing.
After fueling up we set out on a walking tour of Aix en Provence. I wish we would have done the walking tour yesterday, because there was so much more of the city that we didn’t venture into, including some really neat stores. Its odd to me that we had all that free time yesterday without a tour because in previous travels, we were always given the tour then allowed time. Either way, Aix is still amazing!
Elaina pointed out the signature sweet-calissonnes. These little marquis shaped cookies were commissioned by King Rene for his wedding as a way to impress the attendees. The treat stuck with the bakers of the city because they are still produced today and are unique to Provence. I have to say, I would definitely prefer calissonnes at my wedding rather than the silly candy coated almonds.
As we dodged delivery trucks on the narrow cobblestone streets, we moved further into the city. We came across a square which I recognized from yesterday, except today it was bustling with a farmers market. The sites and smells were overwhelming as we wove through the isles looking at the beautiful produce and handmade home goods. I tried some taponade as recommended by Elaina. It was absolutely delicious, so I bought two jars to share with my family because I know they would love it too. Then I spotted a vendor with an array of bar soap. I bought my mother five bars for eight euro, a steal compared to in the stores. Of course I had to deal with a flirtatious old man in order to buy it. He said “You have Washington in your eye.” I guess that was his way of identifying me as American, he just had the wrong coast.
Further along the tour, we were witness to a wedding at the Hotel de Ville. This is the City Hall and where all weddings occur. In France, it is unusual to have a large fan fare wedding that we are accustomed to. The larger church ceremonies and receptions are for the richer population and only after the legal union in the city hall. The majority of French people have their legal union at the city hall and then maybe a small party to celebrate the marriage later on.
Elaina also brought us into an old building known for it’s tromp l’oeille painting. Tromp l’oeille translated into English means trick of the eye, and is probably Chuck Thompson’s favorite phrase. It was really neat because it made the inside of this two story building appear to have five more stories and five more balconies than it actually did. It also added inlets and doorways with people sitting or standing on your way up the stairs. I hope the pictures I took will do the artwork justice.
After less than twenty four hours in Aix we had to depart for our next destination. En route, we made two stops. The first stop was Les Baux de Provence. It is a small walled town with a village chateau at the top of the hill. It was steep hike to reach the top, but worth the view. It was also worth the little shops!
Tiny stores were filled with gorgeous pottery, olive tree products, linens and jewelry. I resisted a lot of purchases because Elaina forewarned us that there would be more, less expensive shopping in Arles. I did however find a cute appetizer plate for my mother, decorated with olives, another signature of Provence.
We waited patiently on the bus for two stragglers (Ted and Anouar) before we could head off to our second stop, Mas de Rey, a beautiful little wine vineyard. Surrounded by 120 acres of grapes vines, this small farm house is the site for growing, picking, pressing, bottling and labeling Mas de Rey wine. During the tour and wine tasting, the mother and daughter team explain to us their business and products. We sampled their Van Gogh white wine, a rose wine and a desert red wine along with baguette, taponade and bull’s sausage to cleanse our palette. Surprisingly, my favorite of the three was the white. I am usually a red fan, but this red was very dry and too strong for me. After nearly everyone bought at least one bottle of wine (I bought three for mom) the mother followed us onto the bus and told us in French “You warm my heart. I love you all.” What a sweet lady. I think we made their day!
We finally landed in Arles, our home for the next two nights. This dingy Best Western doesn’t compare to Hotel Roi Rene, but it still beats some other places I’ve stayed in Europe. Once we settled into our rooms we headed out with Elaina who brought us to a square full of cafes include Le Café Nuit, made famous by Van Gogh’s painting. Minus the flashing pharmacy sign in the background, it looked just like Van Gogh’s rendering, and my favorite painting. The entire group of students ended up eating at the café, which was not as good as I expected. They were definitely riding on the fame or the art and not their reputation for food. The steak I had which tasted fishy gave me an upset stomach the rest of the night.
Thursday, May 17th, 2007
The fishy steak got the best of me. I stayed in sick all day with a fever, headache and upset stomach. I couldn’t even enjoy our Provencal dinner.
Tuesday, May 15th, 2007
Our flight from Boston to Paris and from Paris to Marseille was long, but smooth. It was nice to be welcomed by gorgeous weather and our friendly tour guide Elaina. She must have seen the dazed look of a college student on an overnight flight because as I approached she asked me “Are you from the University of New England?” Needless to say at this point none of us knew how great an asset Elaina would be on the first leg of the trip.
We made a quick stop in the Vieux Port of Marseille for our first “petit dejeuner.” I enjoyed a buttery croissant and fresh pressed orange juice while watching the waterfront. I was surprised to see that there were fishermen and women on the side of the bay selling tuna and other fish right off the boat. There was also an extensive array of flowers for sale. On top of that I could not believe how many sail boats were crammed in and docked in the port. Although we only had forty five minutes to explore it was a great first taste of France.
The next quick stop was at the Notre Dame Basilica. The bus could only go so far through the narrow side streets before we were on our own. One hundred and fifty stairs later we had a stunning view of all of Marseille and the Mediterranean Sea. This included the island with the castle which presented the setting for the Count of Monte Cristo and Elaina even mentioned on clear days you could actually see the northern shore of Africa.
As we continued on our journey to Aix en Provence I took in the scenery of city and country side. I was surprised for a second time to see palm trees in Europe (my first experience was in Ireland). When we arrived in Aix, we were please to be staying in a beautiful hotel and to have the rest of the afternoon for gallivanting.
Originally I left the hotel with Mare and Lynn, but ended up with Tammy, Christina, Cassie and Cassie. We wandered and shopped on the main and side streets that Elaina had pointed out to us. Our lunch stop was a small pizzeria. Tammy and I shared a Provencal style pizza and it was delicious. Out of all the shops we went into, my favorite was this funky bead store. They had wall to wall beads and accoutrements to make your own jewelry. The beads were organized by color rather than style (what I’m used to) and you go around and pick out the beads you want to customize your own necklace, bracelet or anklet. I bought a couple beads and a heart charm for one necklace and a bead and ribbon kit for another necklace. The one with the hear charm I think I will give to my cousin Michelle. She wanted a tacky key chain or something crazy like that, but I hate giving tacky gifts. She would enjoy the necklace more.
We ended up returning to the hotel mid afternoon because we all needed to use the restroom. I was reunited with Mare and Lynn and decided we would take advantage of the warm sun and poolside lounge chairs. It was a relaxing afternoon after over 24 hours of traveling. While I was lounging I was thinking about all the fountains I had seen. There were at least five just walking around, and I’m sure there is more in Aix. It was fun to stop and look at the fountains different intricacies and they made for great land markers too! Another thing I noticed was the number of people walking around, shopping and eating with their dogs. It was cool to see the appreciation for four legged friends, but it made me miss my puppy back home. I wish America would be as friendly to let you bring your dogs where ever you go. Of course you’d have to have a well trained dog.
The following entries include my journal from each day of my trip to France. There are more and more courses being offered at UNE that include a trip to a foreign coutry. It is a great alternative to studying abroad if you aren't willing to spend an entire semester abroad.
Rather than including just a few pictures in this blog, you can go to the class's webshots page to check out the entire trip!
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